One of London’s last great, unreconstructed dining rooms, Motcombs has charm and charisma as well as fabulous impressionist and modern art on its panelled walls. Un vrai salon. You won’t find better oysters or smoked salmon anywhere, nor for that matter better fishcakes or Dover sole. Maitre d’ Franco Baptista makes you feel you’re the only person in the world who matters, which of course you are. Also, by some miracle, or perhaps because Philip Lawless is a gifted and experienced restauranteur, in the age of rolled-up shirtsleeves this place has managed to remain smart. If you’re planning a private party, Motcombs Townhouse opposite is a very good place to know about.

Tatler Restaurant Guide 2011

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